Highlighter is a makeup artist’s secret weapon for enhancing natural bone structure and creating a luminous glow. However, its application isn’t one-size-fits-all—the technique should adapt to your unique face shape to accentuate your best features. Here’s a tailored guide to mastering highlighter for every face shape.
1. Round Face
Goal: Create definition and elongate the face.
- Key Areas: Focus on the high points of the face to add vertical emphasis. Apply highlighter along the center of the forehead, down the bridge of the nose, and on the cupid’s bow. Avoid adding shine to the cheeks’ apples, as this can emphasize roundness.
- Pro Tip: Pair highlighting with light contouring under the cheekbones and along the jawline to enhance structure.
2. Oval Face
Goal: Balance proportions while maintaining natural symmetry.
- Key Areas: An oval face already has balanced proportions, so highlight sparingly. Dust highlighter on the cheekbones, inner corners of the eyes, and the brow bone. A subtle sweep across the chin can also add a soft glow.
- Pro Tip: Use a liquid or cream highlighter for a dewy finish that complements the face’s natural contours.
3. Square Face
Goal: Soften angular features and add dimension.
- Key Areas: Apply highlighter to the center of the forehead, the middle of the chin, and above the cheekbones. This draws attention to the center of the face, softening the jawline’s sharpness.
- Pro Tip: Avoid highlighting the temples or outer jawline. Instead, blend a contour shade along the hairline and jaw to soften edges.
4. Heart-Shaped Face
Goal: Balance a wider forehead and narrow chin.
- Key Areas: Highlight the cheekbones, chin, and brow bone to draw attention downward. A touch of highlighter on the tip of the nose can create harmony.
- Pro Tip: Use a peachy or golden-toned highlighter to warm up the chin area and reduce the contrast between the forehead and jaw.
5. Long/Rectangular Face
Goal: Shorten the appearance of the face and add width.
- Key Areas: Focus on horizontal placement. Apply highlighter to the cheeks’ apples, the center of the forehead, and the middle of the chin. Avoid elongating the nose or forehead.
- Pro Tip: A shimmery blush blended into the highlighter on the cheeks can create a youthful, widening effect.
Universal Tips for All Face Shapes
- Product Texture Matters: Dry skin? Opt for creamy formulas. Oily skin? Powder highlighters last longer.
- Blend, Blend, Blend: Use a fluffy brush or damp sponge to diffuse harsh lines.
- Layer Strategically: Apply highlighter after foundation but before setting powder for a seamless finish.