Hooded eyes, characterized by a subtle fold of skin that hides the eyelid, can make applying eyeshadow—especially a smokey eye—feel challenging. However, with the right techniques and products, you can create a sultry, dimensional look that enhances your natural shape. Here’s your ultimate guide to achieving a flawless smokey eye for hooded eyes.
Step 1: Prime and Set the Base
Start with a clean, moisturized eyelid. Apply an eyeshadow primer or a thin layer of concealer to neutralize discoloration and ensure longevity. Hooded eyes are prone to creasing, so set the base with a translucent powder or a skin-toned matte eyeshadow.
Pro Tip: Avoid shimmery primers, as they can emphasize the hooded fold.
Step 2: Map Your Crease
With hooded eyes, the natural crease isn’t always visible when your eyes are open. Use a tapered brush and a medium-toned matte eyeshadow (like taupe or soft brown) to draw a faux crease slightly above your natural fold. Blend upward and outward to create the illusion of depth.
Keyword Focus: This step is critical for smokey eyes for hooded eyes, as it prevents the look from appearing “squashed.”
Step 3: Build Depth with Dark Shades
Choose a matte dark brown or charcoal eyeshadow. Using a small, dense brush, apply the shade to the outer third of your eyelid and blend it inward, staying below the faux crease. Focus on the outer V to lift the eyes. For extra drama, smudge the same shade along the lower lash line.
Avoid: Overloading the mobile lid with dark shades, which can make hooded eyes look smaller.
Step 4: Smoke It Out
Use a fluffy blending brush to soften edges and create a gradient effect. Add a transition shade (a neutral mid-tone) above the faux crease to seamlessly merge colors. For hooded eyes, blending is key—this ensures the smokey effect remains visible even when the lid is relaxed.
Step 5: Define with Eyeliner and Mascara
Skip thick eyeliner on the upper lid, as it can overpower hooded eyes. Instead, tightline your upper waterline with a black or brown pencil. For added intensity, wing the liner slightly upward at the outer corner. Finish with volumizing mascara or wispy false lashes to open up the eyes.
Final Touches
- Highlight Strategically: Add a touch of shimmer only to the inner corner and brow bone to brighten without drawing attention to the hooded area.
- Clean Up: Use a makeup wipe or concealer to sharpen the edges for a polished finish.
Why This Works for Hooded Eyes
By placing darker shades higher and blending upward, this technique counteracts the “hidden lid” effect. Matte textures prevent light reflection, which can accentuate the hooded fold, while strategic highlights balance the drama.